Gili Islands, Indonesia: No Motor Vehicles, Only Carriages and Bicycles

Sep 3, 2025

Nestled within the cerulean embrace of the Indian Ocean, the Gili Islands of Indonesia offer a sanctuary where time seems to slow to the gentle rhythm of horse hooves and bicycle wheels. Comprising three small islands—Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno, and Gili Air—this archipelago is a world apart, not just in geography but in philosophy. Here, the internal combustion engine is conspicuously absent, replaced by a transportation symphony of horse-drawn carriages, known as cidomos, and the simple, human-powered bicycle. This isn't merely a quaint tourist feature; it is the foundational principle of a lifestyle that prioritizes tranquility, sustainability, and a profound connection to the natural environment. The absence of roaring engines and honking horns is the first thing a visitor notices, an auditory void quickly filled by the sound of waves, wind, and the soft chatter of island life.


The cidomo is more than just a mode of transport; it is a moving piece of living history and a cultural icon. These brightly painted carriages, pulled by sturdy Indonesian horses, are the islands' taxis, trucks, and tour buses all rolled into one. The clip-clop of their hooves on the sandy paths is the soundtrack of the Gilis. For locals, the cidomo is indispensable, used for everything from ferrying tourists and their luggage from the harbor to delivering fresh supplies to beachfront warungs and transporting construction materials for new bungalows. Each journey is a slow, deliberate affair, allowing both driver and passenger to soak in the surroundings. The relationship between the driver and their horse is one of mutual respect and dependency, a partnership forged under the tropical sun. It is a system that works, not despite its pace, but because of it, forcing a slower, more mindful approach to movement and commerce.


Conversely, the bicycle offers a different kind of freedom—silent, autonomous, and intimate. Renting a bicycle is a rite of passage for any visitor. The islands are almost perfectly flat, making cycling not just easy but utterly delightful. The network of narrow sand and compacted earth paths that crisscross each island invites exploration. On two wheels, one can discover hidden cafes tucked behind lush foliage, stumble upon secluded stretches of beach untouched by crowds, and witness the daily rhythms of local villages where fishing nets are mended and children play. The bicycle embodies the islands' ethos of simplicity and self-reliance. There is no need for traffic lights, parking lots, or complex road rules; just a shared understanding to move with care and acknowledge fellow travelers with a smile and a nod. This creates an environment of remarkable safety and serenity, where the only thing you might need to avoid is a leisurely crossing monitor lizard or a stray chicken.


The conscious decision to ban motorized vehicles was not an arbitrary one. It was a choice deeply rooted in preservation—of the environment, the community's well-being, and the unique visitor experience. The environmental benefits are immediately apparent. The air is incredibly clean, free from the smog and particulate pollution that plague so many tourist destinations. The lack of asphalt roads and constant traffic means less runoff into the surrounding marine ecosystems, helping to protect the vibrant coral reefs that are the lifeblood of the islands. The noise pollution is virtually zero, creating a peaceful atmosphere that benefits both wildlife and humans. This ban also protects the islands' social and cultural fabric. It prevents the rapid, often disruptive development that can accompany easy vehicular access, ensuring that growth happens at a manageable pace. It keeps the economic model localized and accessible; owning a cidomo or a rental bike business is within reach of local families, preventing large external corporations from dominating the transport economy.


This unique infrastructure profoundly shapes the visitor experience, dictating a pace of life that is the very antithesis of a modern, hurried vacation. Without the option to zoom from one attraction to the next, travelers are encouraged to stay put, to explore their immediate surroundings on foot or by pedal, and to truly immerse themselves in the place. It fosters a deeper level of engagement. You remember the scent of frangipani as you cycled past a garden, the conversation with a cidomo driver about his horse, the feeling of warm sand under your feet as you walked back from dinner under a canopy of stars. The islands become not a checklist of sights seen, but a collection of sensory experiences and genuine interactions. This slow travel model naturally attracts a certain type of traveler—one seeking authenticity, relaxation, and a temporary escape from the complexities of the modern world.


Of course, maintaining this idyllic system is not without its challenges and nuances. The reliance on horses raises important questions about animal welfare, a topic that responsible tourists are increasingly aware of. While many owners treat their animals with great care, the industry is not uniformly regulated. The heat, the weight of loads, and the condition of the animals are ongoing concerns that some local operators and NGOs are working to address through better practices and education. Furthermore, the "motor-free" rule has a few exceptions. Small motorized tractors are occasionally used for heavy logistical work, especially construction, and the buzzing of small generator engines can sometimes be heard, powering the islands' limited electricity grid. Yet, these are minor concessions in the grand scheme, slight imperfections in an otherwise remarkably consistent commitment to a car-free existence.


In a world racing towards ever greater efficiency and speed, the Gili Islands stand as a powerful testament to the beauty and intentionality of slowness. They are a living example that progress does not always have to mean more noise, more speed, and more pollution. The humble cidomo and the simple bicycle are not symbols of a forgotten past but beacons for a potentially more sustainable and peaceful future. They prove that a community can thrive by choosing a different path, one where the journey itself—the clip-clop, the turn of the pedal, the wave from a passerby—is the ultimate destination. To visit the Gilis is to understand that sometimes, the most advanced technology for moving forward is to simply slow down.



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